Madison County Master Gardener Association, Inc.

Helping others grow...in Madison County, Indiana

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

         

                                                                                                                   

 

 

 

 

 

 

                        

 

Basic Supplies                                               Sample Journal (compliments of Homestead Harvest)

This list is only a suggestion, but I explain why I include each item.

• A 1 ½ - 3” three-ring binder, depending on the size and number of your gardens
• Lined notebook paper
• Blank, holed paper
• Graph paper for mapping (optional, depending on desired precision)
• Standard sheet separators for various sections (brightly colored cardstock, punched with holes also works fine)
• At least two sturdy plastic, three-hole “pocket” files (available from the school or office supply store
• Standard pencils (a mechanical one is handy)
• Colored pencils (if desired)
• A pencil pouch
• A short ruler

Your journal can help you in any of these ways.

Mapping your landscape

First, map out your overall “aerial view” of the entire property without including much detail but a letter for each large section. Then, begin mapping each lettered section in more detail, one section per page, skipping a page after each for notes.

If you desire precise maps, you can make these on graph paper using plastic templates (usually available from craft, hobby, or office stores). These have various sizes of circles for trees and several forms of lines and curves, etc.

I prefer just to sketch a rough drawing on blank paper, especially because it’s a good idea to update your maps at least every two years (if not every season) as you divide clusters or add new plants. With frequent changes, it is time-consuming to redraw precise maps, although that may be ideal. If you draw freehand, your ruler can help you keep things in relative perspective with, for example, a large tree at three inches and a birdbath at ½”.

Two keys to good mapping are properly noting landmarks and working at a level of detail that fits for the size of map. Choose stationery landmarks and gage approximate distances from each of these. For example, if you have a sidewalk with a shrub on either end, you may need only the sequential order and the approximate distance between clusters of plants as you draw them between the two shrubs.

Somewhere between freehand pencil and 3-D virtual tour, this plain image, made quickly in Microsoft Paint (free with Windows) offers a record of plant locations in one section of yard.

Remember that useful mapping is both “big picture” and detailed. For example, you may have a large flower garden in the front yard with a section of tiered crocuses, daffodils, and tulip bulbs as part of a larger landscape. The big picture map of the front yard might show a three inch wide square of three lines. Use your own shorthand note system and draw a close-up of that tiered section on a separate page or the reverse side of your large-scale map. The close-up drawing can help you determine the dispersal of those bulbs for dividing, replacing, and so on.

Of course, how you draw your maps is a matter of personal preference. If you have plenty of time and want to “craft” your landscape, you can go so far as to create a computerized, 3-D virtual view in a garden-planning software package and include those print-outs in your journal.

After working all day on a computer, I’d rather be outside scribbling with pencil in closer proximity to honeysuckle and clematis.

A portable filing system

Although you will need to keep this journal relatively dry, take it with you into the garden as often as possible. If you use pencil (writing darkly), you won’t have to worry about smudged or running ink from any scattered spray. Or relax in your lawn chair after a hard day’s work and bring your journal up-to-date then.

Designate one of the file pockets as a seed/bulb/container package or tag file. For example, I picked up some interesting packets of bulbs at the home store and planted them my first season of gardening at our new home. For some reason, these varieties seldom appear in the standard gardening books for our area. I did save the original packaging so I would know the name, see the photo, and have basic information. Together with mapping, I could easily look up the names of these otherwise less common plants. Cutting away excess packaging helps fit these items into the file pocket, and I’ve added computer print-outs of information for unusual plants that I got from the Internet.

The pencil pouch and other pockets can hold any of these items as needed:

• adhesive labels for pots or plant markers
• a color wheel
• permanent marker for writing on plant markers, plastic bags, etc.
• tweezers, first aid wipes and bandages
• slender volumes such as an insect identification book
• photographs you’ve taken to show plant location, growth, etc.
• a magnifying glass (As I said, gardening brings out the amateur naturalist in me.)

You may even find yourself tearing out a blank sheet and folding in a beautiful flower sample to press and dry later.

Field notes

How often you write in your garden journal is up to you. I find that once the growing season begins, I have so much to do that a few notes are about all I can manage. Rainy days are good for filling in details from the notes and for “discussing” problems or jotting down plans for the weeks ahead or the “Someday” pages.

Some things you might want to include are

• Names (both common and specific variety where known) and locations of the plants—I don’t include all plant details here because I refer to a companion book (see that section) rather than repeating all the information in the journal. I do add things like “odd fragrance” or “bees love it” and so on.
• A monthly planning list of activities—you may find a prepared month-by-month guide for your USDA zone in a published source that you already use. However, be sure to add things you’ve learned to do differently for your specific situation or other relevant comments.
• Long-term dates—I put these next to each section map when the landscape changes such as adding perennials or cutting down a tree.
• Seasonal or short-term dates—These include planting dates for vegetables, fertilizing dates, next time to water, etc.
• Seed packets for the season’s annuals and vegetables—Keeping these helps you evaluate brands for germination rates and remember how many days to yield, etc.
• A few plastic baggies—You may want to collect insect specimens or that seed pod that’s ready to fall where you don’t want new plants!
• Weather records—Include the important dates such as frost in spring and fall, temperature extremes, significant rains, or dry spells.
• Pest and disease problems—This can help you select more disease resistant varieties in the future or avoid the same problem the next year.
• Thoughts about your process—Include what hasn’t worked and what has; what you’ve enjoyed and what has taken too much work.
• Hours of light or shade—Noting amounts for various sections of your yard can help determine “full sun,” “part sun/part shade,” and “shade” locations. Remember to update this as trees and shrubs cast more shadow
• Vegetable yields—You want to back up your bragging rights, don’t you?
• Inspirations—If you love gardening, you know what I mean!

You may want to design and print out forms for any of these on your computer to reduce excess writing. Even when I’ve seen pre-made forms available, I usually end up making a lot of adjustments for my own needs, so I usually just start from scratch.

Another tip is to use “Landscape” view for your landscaping drawings or forms! In other words, turn the computer form or map sideways for situations where you need more columns that rows and so on.

Companion books

To supplement and guide my experiences, I still need a lot of help! I have a couple of comprehensive companion books (as well as my thick Master Gardener binder) that detail the recommended care, times to prune or cut back, types of soil preference, etc. for many of the plants in my gardens. I don’t put these in my binder because, obviously, they are too large to fit—and who wants to lug those around the yard! Instead, I use a cross-reference and marking system for the relevant pages to help me move from book to journal and back. Once I’ve marked the pages for the plants I have, I can include the care instructions in my monthly planning list.

Going digital

Finally, many computer-savvy folks are moving their gardening experience into the office and onto the Internet. Many Web sites offer space for individuals to post all kinds of things, including notes and photos in ready-made garden journals. This may help build community between gardeners around the world or attract visitors to commercial sites. If you’ve got the resources and are so inclined, you might try taking digital photos from the garden and including them beside the text in your own electronic journal.

Even though I’m about as computer savvy as any gardener I know, I still prefer the old-fashioned way. I do like to take photos and even post them to our Master Gardener Web site, but I like to keep notes where I can jot them down in a shady spot under the trees. I also tend to write over last year’s notes with this year’s updates. And, somehow the smudges of soil on the damp-crinkled pages help remind me that this garden is really my own.

 

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